Here’s A to Z on peptides and the best possible daily routine to rejuvenate your skin!

Peptides are an ingredient that is very much in vogue at the moment and that we definitely want in an anti-ageing product. In this blog, I will try to explain why they are so popular with consumers and why they are added to cosmetic products that are renowned for their high efficacy.

We are all familiar with the terms proteins, peptides and amino acids, but we are probably less aware that they are essential for our health and development, and that they actually exist naturally in our bodies. We are often quite confused, as we often use the terms interchangeably.

The most well-known proteins in skin care are collagen and elastin, which are key to maintaining skin firmness and elasticity, but both decline with age

Why do we want PEPTIDs in our product?

Peptides are an ingredient that is very “IN” at the moment, as they have certain properties that are extremely beneficial for our skin.

Did you know that:

• do peptides have a natural “technology” to increase skin moisture?
• Peptides improve skin elasticity, texture and moisture?
• are peptides effective anti-ageing and protective ingredients as they reduce free radical damage to the skin?
• do peptides have proven skin-renewing properties?
• peptides work well in products such as serums but also face creams?

And how do PEPTIDI achieve all of the above?

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and protects us from physical and biological threats, so the lipid barrier has an important function in our body. It prevents the entry of foreign bodies, i.e. unwanted substances into our body.

Peptides can penetrate our skin and bind to cell surface receptors to stimulate cell activity. Studies show that they reduce fine lines and wrinkles and help increase skin firmness and elasticity, improving the overall appearance of the skin.

What are PEPTIDS anyway?

Let’s start with their building blocks and related molecules – amino acids and proteins.

Amino acids play an important role in maintaining healthy skin, as they are the building blocks that make up the peptides and proteins that the skin needs. Some amino acids act as humectants and promote tissue repair and regeneration.

Proteins are large molecules made of one or more chains of amino acids. Proteins are necessary for the structure, function and regulation of the body’s cells, tissues and organs, and each protein has unique functions in the body. Proteins are essential components of muscle, skin and bone, and of the body as a whole. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are smaller than proteins.

Peptides are naturally occurring in living organisms, including the human body, and have chains of about 20 amino acids. They have many functions in our bodies, from hormones that influence the endocrine system to those that regulate the immune system.

Some (peptides) have a remarkable soothing effect on the skin, while others can improve the appearance of wrinkles, slow down the loss of skin firmness and help to soften the appearance of expression lines.

What is the difference between synthetic and natural PEPTIDs?

Peptides can be created synthetically by building amino acid chains or by breaking down proteins.

Synthetic peptides are created to mimic the size, shape and amino acid content of their natural counterparts. Some of the most common synthetic peptides that are often used in combination to increase collagen and elastin production are palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7.

These two peptides are linked to fatty acids, which give them an optimal hydrophobic/hydrophilic balance and thus improve their ability to penetrate the skin. A second synthetic peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8, was created to mimic the effect of botulinum toxin and target expression lines to relax facial muscles.

Fortunately, there is also a wonderful range of natural alternatives to synthetic peptides, derived from plants and their ingredients, which are just as effective.

8 high-performance natural peptides

The two key segments of natural peptides are plant collagen and hydrolysed proteins. Let’s take a look at each of them separately.

Vegetable collagen

Collagen protein makes up about 25% of the proteins in our bodies. It is the basis of connective tissue and the building block of muscle, bone and cartilage, as well as the main component of the dermis. In fact, there are more than 16 forms of collagen in the body, with four main types providing structure and support.

Natural collagen is a fascinating three-dimensional structure of peptide chains twisted into a triple helix that gives it its strength. Plant collagen was developed as an alternative to animal collagen. Scientists have worked hard to develop a form of soluble collagen through a fermentation process using yeast from the Saccharomycetaceae family.

Yeast contains high molecular weight glycoproteins – proteins that have sugars bound to them. The yeast cells are broken down and the glycoproteins are isolated. These glycoproteins can increase moisture levels in a similar way to animal collagen due to the presence of sugars. This form of collagen is used to moisturise and nourish skin and hair care products.

Hexapeptide-11

This water-soluble peptide is a chain of six amino acids. It is derived from the unicellular organism Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Over time, the organism has developed a series of mechanisms to protect itself against stressful situations such as extreme temperature conditions and oxidative stress. These mechanisms stimulate the accumulation of sugars and proteins in the body, triggering changes in the cell. Such yeast extracts are now used to improve and increase skin tone and elasticity. They are also known to stimulate cell renewal and increase the level of hydration in the stratum corneum.

Hydrolysed proteins: elastin

Elastin is a protein in the skin and connective tissue that gives the skin its elastic properties, which is important, for example, for facial muscles during conversation. Elastin is gradually depleted by environmental exposure, although the breakdown of elastin can be slowed down with a healthy lifestyle, a balanced diet and a good daily skincare routine.

Elastin is a very large molecule that cannot penetrate the skin. When applied topically, it allows a film to form, giving a smoothing and moisturising effect.

Hydrolysed proteins play an important and functional role in the maintenance of our skin and hair. Often, protein molecules that have undergone a process of enzymatic hydrolysis are broken down into smaller peptides or amino acid building blocks, so that even if they do not have the word ‘peptide’ in their composition (INCI), they are considered by their structure to be peptides of natural origin, which can help to improve the elasticity, texture and hydration of the skin and hair.

Hydrolysed pea protein

Pisum sativum has been extensively studied and is considered to have the most balanced amino acid profile, containing as many as 22 amino acids. It is an excellent moisturiser due to its film-forming properties and reduces free radical damage to the skin and hair, which means that it can also be used as an anti-ageing and protective ingredient.

Hydrolysed lupin protein

Lupinus commonly known as Lupine is a plant rich in amino acids, especially glutamine. Glutamine has the ability to increase cell growth. It also contains vitamins and minerals that help maintain healthy skin and scalp. The hydrolysed shell protein acts as an enzyme inhibitor and prevents the breakdown and damage of collagen and elastin, thus helping to rebuild the skin.

Hydrolysed silk proteins

These have been developed for use in products such as moisturisers, serums, shampoos and conditioners. They are water soluble and retain moisture well due to their film-forming properties, making them suitable for use on dry and irritated skin.

Hydrolysed quinoa protein

Quinoa is better known as a superfood and is part of the Chenopodiaceae family. This water-soluble ingredient provides a high level of moisture to the skin thanks to its high levels of various amino acids, while making the skin soft. In addition, quinoa is known to provide antioxidant and repairing effects, making it suitable for both skin and hair care.

Hydrolysed wheat proteins

Wheat proteins are large and complex, with four different protein fractions corresponding to the elastic and binding properties of wheat. Hydrolysed wheat proteins are water-soluble with strong moisture-binding and film-forming properties, making hydrolysed wheat proteins an effective skin-protecting and anti-irritant ingredient suitable for use in skin care and hair care.

Shop oz. recommendation for a healthy daily routine

If you are thinking about incorporating natural peptides into your daily routine, it is important to consider the type of product you will be using. Products such as serums and creams are more suitable for peptide use than facial cleansers or moisturisers. products that are rinsed off. The effects of peptides are often cumulative, which means that it is a good idea to have them in different forms and in several products that you use on a daily basis, such as toners, serums and face creams.

Peptides are an excellent addition to products, especially for mature skin. But peptides alone are not enough. Optimally, our daily routine should contain quality products with a mix of ingredients that are beneficial for our skin, including ntioxidants, as well as moisturisers and ingredients that repair the skin barrier. In this way, we can maximise the effect and achieve healthy, radiant and toned-looking skin.

NANU line offers high quality and highly effective products that actually help to give you beautiful and radiant skin.

The ideal daily routine is as follows:

• STEP 1: Apply NANU Nourishing Toner with Damask Rose and Green Tea, infused with peptides in the form of silk proteins, to a cleansed face;
• STEP 2: Apply the HYALURONIC ACID AND PEPTID SERUM to the still slightly damp face and
• STEP 3: Finish the daily routine with the application of the chosen FACE CREAM (all creams from the NANU range have natural peptides added).

The procedure described is suitable for both morning and evening facial care.

All three products in the NANU range – the invigorating toner, the hyaluronic acid and peptide serum and the face cream – together form the ideal combination for facial care, as they are a unique blend of highly effective moisturisers, antioxidants and active ingredients, covering all our skin’s needs. The results are quickly visible and show up in beautiful, toned and youthful skin.

Sources:

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/1541-4337.12209

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962216002036

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.12229

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21374808/

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/23160190_Role_of_protein_in_cosmetics