Effectiveness of natural (mineral) sunscreens
I’ve been thinking about writing a blog on sunscreens for a long time, because I get a lot of questions about when the NANU line will launch a natural sunscreen and how effective natural sunscreens really are. As is almost always the case in life, not everything is black or white. In theory, natural sunscreens work. Two natural ingredients that offer protection against the sun’s harmful rays (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) have been proven to work successfully to block UV rays, but …
Yes, but unfortunately this is also the case when it comes to natural sun creams. To answer this question, we first need to know a little more background about the rays themselves, about the type of sunscreen and the ingredients that block UV rays and therefore offer protection from the sun, but we also need to take into account the individual factor of the user of the product itself – so we are talking about the correct use of sunscreens. It is, in short, a very broad subject, so I will try in this article to go into a little more detail on all the factors involved in the manufacture of a sun cream and in the use of the product.
Incidentally, I was prompted to actually write about the issue by the recent test result of high SPF sunscreens published in the latest issue of the Slovenian Consumers’ Association magazine (
But let’s go down the line.
HOW DO SUNSCREENS WORK?
Excessive sun exposure, especially unprotected sun exposure, can greatly accelerate skin ageing and skin cancer. The ultraviolet (UV) spectrum is particularly dangerous. The main culprits are UVA and UVB rays. You may not know it, but UVA rays account for 95% of the UV rays that reach the Earth’s surface, while UVB rays only account for 5%. UV rays cause sunburn, DNA damage and accelerate skin ageing. When used correctly and consistently, sunscreens can help reduce the ageing of the skin caused by the sun (known as photo-ageing) and reduce the risk of skin cancer.
Most people think that the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) number, or in Slovenian ZF (Sun Protection Factor), tells us everything about a sunscreen. In reality, SPF only measures protection against UVB rays, which are linked to sunburn and skin cancer. So SPF only measures UVB rays and doesn’t really tell us anything about UVA rays and protection against them. But it is UVA rays that are around us every day, by far the most and can even penetrate through the window glass. Like UVB rays, UVA rays are linked to skin cancer, but unlike UVB, they are not filtered by ozone at all. UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but they penetrate deeper layers of the skin and have an effect on collagen fibres, which means they affect skin ageing. “Broad spectrum” is therefore the phrase to look for first on products that are designed to protect against the sun – that is, protection against UVA and UVB rays.
“Broad spectrum” is therefore the phrase to look for first on products that are designed to protect against the sun – that is, protection against UVA and UVB rays.
And what does the SPF number actually mean? Technically, SPF 30 means that we can stay in the sun 30 times longer before we get sunburnt than we would if we went out without sunscreen. In terms of protection itself, a product with an SPF of 15 filters out about 93% of UVB rays, an SPF of 30 about 97% and an SPF of 50 about 98% of UVB rays. In the EU, if a product advertises SPF 30, it must have a UVA protection of at least 10.
THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL (CHEMICAL) SUNSCREENS
Skin cancer is one of the most common cancers in Slovenia and worldwide. It is linked to an unhealthy lifestyle – mainly excessive sunbathing. Skin cancer can often be avoided with the right protection. In addition to wearing hats and other protective clothing, dermatologists stress the importance of applying sun cream every day.
There are two types of sunscreens:
- sunscreens with mineral UV filters (also called mineral or natural or physical), and
- Sunscreens with chemical UV filters (also called chemical sunscreens);
Although both types of creams serve the same purpose – to protect the skin against skin cancer, sunburn and premature skin ageing (photoageing) – they have different properties.
There are only two active ingredients in natural sunscreens that work to protect against UV rays, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Chemical or I think I saw somewhere that there are 12 allowed, the most common being oxybenzones, avobenzones, octinoxates, octocrylenes, homosalates, octisalates and a few others. All of these ingredients are currently classified as safe but are under scrutiny. Recent research shows that some sunscreen chemicals are absorbed into the bloodstream and sometimes exceed safe levels.
The difference between the two types of creams also lies in the method of action of the UV protection itself. The mechanisms of action are quite complex, but in a nutshell and in layman’s terms, a natural sunscreen creates a barrier between our skin and the harmful UV rays. Mineral sunscreens work, in principle, by reflecting the sun. By applying sunscreen, we create a kind of physical barrier that provides immediate protection after sunscreen application. The chemical sunscreen is absorbed into the skin, where it then absorbs UV rays before filtering them back out of the skin. After applying a chemical sunscreen, it is necessary to wait 15 to 30 minutes for the sunscreen to be absorbed into the skin before it can actually provide full sun protection. In principle, chemical sunscreens offer a slightly higher SPF than natural sunscreens (natural sunscreens usually offer up to SPF 30), but experts warn that a higher SPF is not necessarily better. A product with an SPF of 30 already protects against 97% of UVB rays. Higher SPFs may offer slightly more protection, but no sunscreen can offer 100% protection against UVB rays.
A higher SPF number may offer slightly more protection, but no sunscreen can offer 100% protection against UVB rays.
And of course there is a big one – what a big one, a huge one! – difference when we look at the environmental aspect. Unlike zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the main active ingredients in chemically produced sunscreens cause significant damage to marine ecosystems. Studies show that ocean water pollution from oxybenzone and octinoxate threatens marine animals, coral reefs and seagrass habitats.
HOW ARE NATURAL SUNSCREENS MADE?
We have already mentioned that there are two natural ingredients that have proven results when it comes to sun protection – zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Both of these compounds work by reflecting and scattering UV rays. They usually come in the form of a powder that is dissolved and mixed into water or oil, depending on the end product you want to achieve. Natural sunscreens can be found in the form of lotion, cream, contact, spray or sunscreen. Sunscreens can be applied as a spray, spray, etc.
Certain products can be quite dense and leave a white trail or trace. do not blend into the skin. This is the reason why many of these products come in spray form, and even more in coloured form – the very reason why they don’t leave a white residue. Because if a natural cream or lotion is not thick and does not leave a coloured residue, there is a good chance that nanoparticles have been used in the product. More on that in a bit …
DO NATURAL SUNSCREENS WORK?
As mentioned earlier, sun exposure increases the risk of skin cancer, which naturally brings up the question of how best to actually protect yourself from the sun’s harmful rays. Many people like to look for natural products, which is why more and more cosmetics manufacturers are selling sun creams that contain natural ingredients, claiming that they are just as effective as chemically ‘built’ sun creams.
But is this true, or are we risking money and skin cancer when we use natural creams?
First, let’s clear up the eternal question: do natural vegetable oils (such as coconut, almond, olive, raspberry seed, etc.) really offer sun protection? The answer is NO.
Many vegetable oils were tested and none of them had an SPF higher than 8. It is, of course, reasonable to include certain oils in sunscreens, as they can contribute to the overall SPF value, but not in a way that the oil itself offers adequate sun protection. Moreover, as we now know, SPF is only about protection against UVB rays. Coconut oil, for example, has an SPF of 7, but this really only applies to UVB rays, whereas if you take UVA + UVB rays into account, its protection or SPF is only 7. SPF ≤ 1.
So, natural creams that offer protection against the sun’s harmful rays contain zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, either one or the other, or both together.
A lot of research has already been carried out. tests (one can be found here) and in all of them, it turned out that chemical sunscreens actually had the advertised protection, while natural sunscreens often did not. The same results were obtained in this year’s ZPS test.
So, to ward off the sun’s rays, mineral sunscreens are applied to the skin to create a barrier, rather than actually penetrating the skin like their chemical competitors. This also means that the product can be quickly rubbed off, or the sun can be removed. can be removed from the skin quickly. In addition, UV light can easily sneak through the surface particles and damage the skin deep in the dermis. Unfortunately, the truth is that the best or worst results were found in the tests. chemical sunscreens have shown the best protection. The risk of skin cancer from exposure to the sun’s rays is infinitely higher than the potentially dangerous ingredients contained in the product.
Sunscreen should be applied every two hours, not forgetting areas such as the scalp, lips, neck and inner legs – these are also the most common sites of melanoma in women. Above all, we should not rely on sunscreen alone. Let us repeat: even the best creams do not offer 100% protection against deadly UV rays. Avoiding sunbathing between 10. 16. and wearing a hat at all times and everywhere are two essential self-protection precautions.
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN SUN CREAMS
Synthetic ingredients such as oxybenzone and avobenzone, which absorb UV rays, have been shown in a recent US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) study to be detectable in the body at potentially dangerous concentrations from the first application.
Oxybenzone is a chemical sunscreen ingredient made from petroleum and was used in 70% of all sunscreens on the market by 2019. Due to increasing negative propaganda, its use has been reduced by more than half in 2021, and according to some data, only around 15% of manufacturers are including it in their sunscreens this year. Surely oxybenzone is an ingredient you do not want in your sun cream, especially not in a sun cream for children. We need to be aware that children are much more vulnerable than adults, so double caution is needed when choosing a sunscreen for children. Also, avoid creams containing avobenzones and octinoxates, as all these compounds are potentially dangerous. Octinoxate is thought to be an endocrine disruptor, meaning it can affect our hormonal system.
The problem with mineral creams containing active ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which otherwise provide good sun protection, is that manufacturers often use nano-sized versions of these minerals – materials measured in nanometres or billionths of a metre – to increase purity and SPF. More research will be needed to fully understand the extent to which nanoparticles can damage cells and organs when introduced into our bodies. Well, if they do!
While application as a cream is not known to be dangerous, there is evidence that inhalation or ingestion of nanoparticles can be dangerous. The lungs have difficulty clearing small particles that can pass from the lungs into the bloodstream. However, once ingested, nanoparticles – e.g. nanoparticles – such as those found in sunscreen and lipsticks – can damage the gastrointestinal tract.
The fact is that we don’t know enough about nanoparticles, partly because we don’t really know what quality of nanoparticles manufacturers use in their products (sunscreens) – because manufacturers don’t have to disclose the quality of nanoparticles. Many companies sell products that are advertised as being free of nano titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These claims are somewhat misleading – even if particle sizes vary between manufacturers – as almost all could be considered as nanomaterial.
Titanium dioxide is also used in the food industry as an additive labelled E171. It gives food a better appearance (titanium dioxide is also used as a white pigment) and provides UV protection (prevents cracking and decomposition of materials). It is permitted in live foods at 1% or 1 % of the total amount of titanium dioxide in food. less. S 7. However, as of 7 August 2022, the use of this additive in the food industry will no longer be allowed in the EU. The EU Commission, after examining studies, has concluded that they cannot rule out concerns that the food additive E171 could damage DNA and possibly cause cancer. Since the main problem is mainly inhalation of titanium dioxide, the advice is to skip the spray sunscreens!
Avoid accepting or. sunscreen sprays due to problems with incorrect application, possible toxicity of ingredients and inhalation concerns. Applying too thin a layer of sunscreen is one reason why sunscreen may not be effective, which is a particular problem with aerosols. For example, the Australian Government recommends that consumers avoid aerosol sunscreens altogether – i.e. spray.
ENVIRONMENTAL VIEW
According to scientists, 14,000 tonnes of luscious creams are washed into the oceans every year. Coral reefs are suffering and dying from chemicals commonly found in sunscreens. Some destinations, including Hawaii, have banned harmful sunscreens (i.e. those containing oxybenzones and octinoxates).
When we swim in the sea with sunscreen, chemicals such as oxybenzone can penetrate the water where they are absorbed by corals. Even when we go for a hike or are by the pool, our sunscreen can be washed off after a shower or shower. flows down the drains into local waters and on to the oceans. Areosol versions of sunscreens can spray large amounts of product onto the sand, where it also washes into the oceans.
Coral reefs around the world are threatened by pollution. The colourful corals serve as a sunken garden for the marine ecosystem, with thousands of fish swimming alongside and making the reef their home. If coral reefs die out, we will lose an important ecosystem.
SHOP
Of course, as it is advisable to spend more time outdoors, prevention is even more important. Personally, the most horrifying thing for me is to see someone on the beach putting on sun cream and the next minute going into the sea. I can just see the greasy stain that comes off after just a few swishes in the water. It makes me shudder to think how we humans are polluting the seas and oceans and how coral reefs are actually disappearing before our eyes.
For my part, I will absolutely, especially from an environmental point of view, continue to use natural creams, because, despite the uncertainties that exist, I believe that lotions with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are among the best choices for sun protection.
However, even in the light of the ZPS results, a little caution when applying natural creams is still warranted. A sense of false security can also be quite dangerous. I myself always test a newly purchased natural sunscreen on a small area of skin first.
Of course, following the advice of dermatologists is also a very good idea, as:
- choose products with a broad spectrum of action (UVA + UVB protection),
- The SPF should be between 30 and 50,
- Mineral sunscreens work immediately, while chemical sunscreens should be applied at least 15 minutes before going out in the sun,
- apply sun cream every two hours or. after swimming, excessive sweating, etc,
- apply a lip balm with a lip factor to protect the lips,
- we wear a hat outdoors hat.
The sun, sea (salt), swimming pools (chlorine) and wind are very drying to our skin, so I make sure my skin is properly moisturised in summer. I do this by spritzing my skin with NANU toner with damask rose and green tea, then follow up with a hyaluronic serum with peptides and papaya, and finish my daily routine with an intensive moisturiser. Once everything has absorbed well into my skin, I apply sun cream. I do the same for my whole body. I apply the moisturiser and then the sun cream.
I wish you a beautiful and above all a safe summer!
Sources:
https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/executive-summary/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27148370/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23820721/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26610885/
https://www.webmd.com/diet/titanium-dioxide-in-food
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